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Generally …

At one time, tour books were a necessity. Today, with smartphones, we can access information no matter where we are — so long as there’s WiFi. Either make sure your accommodations supply free WiFi or find the nearest McDonald’s or WiFi café. (You may wish to purchase and download a maps app to your tablet/smartphone so that you can download maps for those times when you’re without internet and there’s not a McDonald’s in sight.)  When in a new or unfamiliar city, I use Trip Advisor to find restaurants and places of interest but the site can also be used to book tickets, make hotel reservations, and the like. Many use The Lonely Planet in much the same way and there are any number of sites offering the same services. 

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When traveling, today there are a number of choices for accommodations and many sites to help you find a hotel room or flat. I’ve used Hotels.com and Booking.com for hotel rooms and VRBO to rent flats. I know friends have used Airbnb without complaint.  The type of lodging you get really depends upon what you want. Hotels have all of the amenities and, unlike here in the States, will provide a full breakfast every morning. A flat has fewer amenities but will give you more privacy and very often much more space. The earlier you go about securing a flat, the more amenities you’ll find — i.e., in-flat laundry facilities, free WiFi, terrace, choice locations, etc. If renting a flat, be sure to look at the entire listing. Very often, additional charges will be required for items like city taxes, extra towels, and cleaning services — either daily or once your stay ends.

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Once you’ve arrived and settled into your room, take a walk to get to know your neighborhood. Look for a good trattoria that you can return for lunch or an afternoon espresso. By the way, if you sit at a table at one of these cafés, you’ll be expected to pay more than you would if you stand at the counter.  If I need a rest or want to people watch, I’ll take a seat. If all I need is a shot of caffeine, I’ll spend a few minutes at the counter. Speaking of espresso, in Italy it is customary to enjoy cappuccino until noonevery day. After 12:00, it’s espresso all the way, although an after dinner caffè is perfectly acceptable. By the way, the same “table fee” often holds true for taking a seat at a gelateria. Speaking of which, avoid a place where the banana gelato is very yellow or the pistachio is really green. This could be an indication that the gelato has been colored and is not all natural. A look at the Trip Advisor website will point you to a great place for gelato.

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If you’re lucky, you’ll come upon a market in your neighborhood. You’re sure to be tempted by the fresh fruit and vegetables. DO NOT TOUCH!!!! It is very frowned upon for customers to handle any of the edible items. A clerk, very often wearing latex gloves, will come to your aid and either select something for you or grab whatever you want. If you’re even more lucky, in the area there will be a salumeria (for salami) or prosciutteria (for prosciutto). Very often they’ll also have fresh bread and a selection of cheeses for sale, too. Soon you’ll return to your room with breakfast and lunch for the following day — or one heckuva late night snack.

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Getting around …

One thing to remember: no matter how you’re getting around, remain alert with an eye on your belongings. When traveling alone, falling asleep on a train with your bag next to you is an invitation for trouble. The same advice applies no matter where you travel, be it stateside or abroad.

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Train travel …

A few things to consider  

1. Really no need for rail passes if traveling solely in Italy. Seat reservations are very often required with a fee associated, with or without a rail pass. Obviously, a rail pass is the less economical choice.  
2. You can purchase tickets online or at terminals in the stations. A credit card with PIN is required. Unless traveling on a major holiday, no need for advance purchase. However, some fares may be cheaper when booked in advance.
3. Three sites to buy tix online
   1. ItaliaRail.com  Easy to use and may even be a little cheaper if more than 1 person is traveling.  ONLY FOR TRAVEL IN ITALY.
   2. Trenitalia.com Not as foreigner-friendly as is ItaliaRail, with some clunky translations. Does not show Italo trains.
   3. Loco2.com UK-based company that sells tix throughout western Europe, not just Italy.
4. For an overview of train travel in Italy, go to: http://www.thecrowdedplanet.com/simple-guide-italian-trains/
5.  For a much more complete look at train travel in Italy, go to: http://www.seat61.com/Italy-trains.htm#What are Italian trains like

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Bus Travel …

If your holiday is going to be spent in one city or town, trains will get you there and back again but they aren’t much good for touring the area. This is where buses come in. There are far too many options to describe here but this website will give you information on bus & transportation web links throughout Italy and Europe.  http://www.busstation.net/index.phpeurope/westerneurope/italy/

Local Buses …

I’ve little experience with them, preferring to walk or use the Metro to get around. For example, this link will supply Rome-related bus info:  https://www.rometoolkit.com/transport/rome_bus.htm,  

and this link will give you Milan-related public transit-related info: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g187849-s303/Milan:Italy:Public.Transportation.html 

Similar sites exist for just about every city you’ll visit.

Metro …    

A number of Italian cities have subways, “Metro”. Use this link to find the Metro maps for Catania, Genoa, Milan, Naples, Perugia, Rome, and Turin. http://mapa-metro.com/en/Italy/  You’ll find the Metro to be a clean, safe way to get around the city. 

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Dining …

  Perhaps the greatest of all of Italy’s tourist attractions is the food. Mamma mia! Absent a Zia Pina to cook and cater to your every whim, there are a number of ways to find a good meal. A website like Trip Advisor will list the area’s restaurants and rate them based upon its users’ rankings. I’ve never been steered wrong by them. Ask the hotel concierge or a staff member for suggestions. The owner/manager of the flats I’ve rented will often leave a “Welcome” sheet or book that gives you the “lay of the land” that will include restaurants. Lastly, while walking around, make note of places full of locals for lunch. I’ve enjoyed some wonderful meals based on these non-verbal “recommendations”. Try to avoid the cafés that line the popular piazze and monuments. No matter how good the food, it tends to be over-priced. Still, they are great for people watching and you are on holiday. A caffè and biscotti won’t break the bank and the view is always fascinating. That pretty much holds true for restaurants, too. Places nearest tourist points of interest tend to be higher priced than those located a few blocks away without any difference in the quality served. In Venice, for example, dining near the Grand Canal or Piazza San Marco will cost significantly higher than restaurants located a little off the tourist-beaten path. Best to refer to the tour book/sites or a kindly local for help with the decision.

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When dining in Italy, remember it is highly recommended that you avoid using grated cheese with seafood pasta. In fact, the wait staff probably won’t even bring it to the table unless you ask. I don’t suggest asking. (This is not a silly custom. It is believed that many types of seafood are so delicately flavored that grated cheese will simply overpower them.)  Don’t be shy. If you have a question about an item on the menu, just ask. I’ve yet to find a wait person in Italy that wasn’t helpful or in any way rude. The biggest bargain on any menu in Italy is the wine. Unlike here, there is very little mark-up for a bottle purchased in a restaurant as opposed to a store. (Speaking of wine, it is readily available in any number of stores throughout Italy. While you’re on the walk I spoke of earlier, I bet there will be a shop of some sort selling wine — maybe even a tasting or two — within a short distance of your rooms.) The wait staff in Europe’s restaurants and cafés are all paid a living wage unlike here. This means that although tips are appreciated, the staff is not dependent upon them to earn a living. Having worked in a bar, I can’t leave a table without giving the wait person something, usually about 5% of the bill, although I have left as much as 10% for truly exceptional service, heavy emphasis on “exceptional”.

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Most importantly, have fun wherever you go, whatever you do. My nephew and I dined at Costanza’s in Rome one evening. Why? With both of us being “Seinfeld” fans, how could we possibly pass it up? Similarly, when in Bologna, I make a point of stopping for a caffè somewhere along the Via Zamboni. Life-long hockey fans will understand.

I have been fortunate enough to have toured Italy on several occasions. On one such trip, in the spring of 2012, my Zia Lea accompanied me. It was by far my favorite time spent with her. Lasting 2 weeks, we managed to see Venice, Florence, and Rome. Not only did we see ALL of the sights, we also survived swarming pigeons, a transit strike, walked — unwittingly — in a pro-labor march, and I laughed as some gossiping women went slack-jawed when Zia spoke to them in Italian. Oh! I almost forgot. Zia met and shook hands with the Pope. Now, that is a memory I’ll never forget! Members of the Fellowship can read all about it in a two-part post that I shared back in 2012. Here’s Part 1 and here’s Part 2.

Now that you know where I live on WordPress, don’t be a stranger. I’ll be more than happy to assist you in any way that I can should you find yourself planning a trip to “the Old Country”. If yours is to be a secret get-away, don’t tell any birds!

chg john

John blogs here at the Bartolini Kitchens.