ISLAND CAFE

The island of Telendos was totally silent. No cars. No scooters. No boatloads of tourists. No hustle or bustle. There were places waiting for the tourists but the morning we were there it was deeply quiet.

We walked from one end of the settlement to the other encountering nothing but fishing boats and the distant sound of Greek music from the open windows.

It was hot and the red earth was scorched and dry.

There would not be enough feed for a cow on this whole island – though I could live here.

At the most beautiful cafe we paused for a few hours . We ate spanakopita and drank Greek beer and sunk into the total quiet of The place.

As the small fishing boats came and went delivering vegetables and fish to the wheelbarrow pushing residents the skippers would tie up and wander in to our cafe for a coffee or water and another spanakopita. They helped themselves, chatted for a while and wandered with ease and gentle nods back to their boats.

We watched as the little oven was totally emptied. No more food came out. And no one was ever offered a menu. Every seat faced the sea. We were able to sit for hours and rest.

Every half hour some kind of boat was available as a ferry – you just paid the skipper a couple of euro and climbed aboard with the locals.

Telendos was a view through a crack in the stone wall into another world. A world that was hard to describe as we could only view it not join it. See it, not experience it. And in this micro world it all revolved around the sea and this little port with its one short pier, the boats tied one to the other and the gentle kindness of its men to each other. Their perfect manners with the tourists. As though this has all been decided in some long ago town meeting. The women staying quietly almost out of sight – a moving shadow deep in an open doored house, cooking by a window or watching from the doorways their brooms in their hands.

These islands are spotlessly clean – everywhere. Even the alleys are shiny and in order. No bins or litter or tagging. The shutters and gates are well painted. The steps beautiful with care.

All the cafes and restaurants in Kalymnos, and this island Telendos, are outdoor. Often the kitchen is the central building with all the non locals kept out on the wide verandahs. We are not invited inside.

The life of a tourist is to see a cropped version of a place. Leaving us greedy and always wanting more. Hungry for something we cannot name.

I think I would like to live here a while. And dip more than my toe in the water.

Love celi

44 responses to “ISLAND CAFE”

  1. Utter peace and tranquillity with the problem of the world out of sight and mind . . . . yes, I can see you there until the September winds made you find a ferry and hand over a few euros to ‘civilization’ . . . . .

  2. Visiting a place is one thing…living there is completely different…its a great romantic idea…but try to imagine it in the depths of winter and l know that its not as cold there as in other parts…but no tourists means no trade and shutters get shut….the cool water is cold and rough and the wind is blowing a hooley… Then compare with your farm life….mmmm

    Ok. ..back to Greece.xxx

    Have a lovely day

  3. I’ve was once invited to join friends in Greece. Didn’t go. I was honestly deeply afraid I would not be able to leave. I still have no idea what even means!

  4. If you stayed, you’d soon be invited in! But you chose the best time to go, soon it will get too hot to climb, and a lot more busy. Schools are out in the next couple of weeks. September and October are also good.

  5. Wow. Beautiful pics. Fascinating life there. So different from mine, it is hard to fathom. Interesting observations. Thank you.

  6. Perhaps not a cow, but a goat or two? And an olive tree, and a fig tree, and a grape vine over the pergola at the back of your house, where the table and chairs are. I could see you being quite happy there, growing vegetables, keeping some hens, buying fish directly off the boat. So selfishly, I’m hoping you’ll be back on the ferry and heading home when the holiday is over. Our John and the rest of the Farmy population would miss you too much, as would we…

  7. Ok, so no wild greek dancing, plate breaking parties there then 🙂 Celi you are an optimist and will make the very best of wherever you are, and keep us invested with your beautiful photography. Thank you for sharing with us. Laura

  8. A slice of heaven. I would love that place too. Thanks for taking us along on your trip. Fascinating.

  9. Your line “Hungry for something we cannot name” resonates with me. The place sounds so peaceful, the lack of sounds, so lovely.

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